vineri, 16 noiembrie 2007

RGM WATCHES

We don't usually talk about high-end dress watches, and even more rarely about custom-made mechanical pieces, so this article is a bit of an experiment for us. But RGM -- both the company and the watches -- is too unique not have some mention on Watch Report.

As amazing as it might sound, America used to be the preeminent watch maker in the world in the pre World War II timeframe. Brands like Hamilton, Elgin, Gruen, Benrus, and Illinois led the way in automated production and railroad-grade watches, producing high-quality timepieces at a broad range of prices. Their decline can mainly be attributed to the quartz revolution of the 1960s.

An RGM watch can be had starting at about $1,750, although the majority of the collection ranges from $4,500 to $26,000. Major watch complications, like its Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar or Tourbillon, are the crown jewels of the collection exceeding $80,000 to over $100,000. Even still, RGM is considered a bargain. The quality of the $1,700 RGM watch matches that of many other brands' watches costing many times as much.

And further:

RGM watches are crafted in extremely small series of 18k yellow or rose gold, platinum, and stainless steel. They feature hand-finished cases and such elements as engine-turned (guilloché) dials and blued-steel hands. In every case, they are of the highest quality in their price range. Most components are Swiss made although some models feature American and Swiss made components. Every limited-edition watch is individually numbered and signed.

Their low-priced watches use Swiss movements from ETA, Valjoux, and A Schild. I was particularly entranced by the GMT Alarm (pictured here).

Even their basic watches use high-grade movements that are finely decorated. ETA, for example, comes in 5 grades of movement, from undecorated to COSC chronometer, and RGM uses the best. Gorgeous stuff.

Not a lot of people understand, want, or need such watches, but if you do, an RGM is both a classic and a classy choice. As unique as you want, complete with historic American movements, RGM is a fascinating anomaly in the world of mass-produced European and Asian brands. I don't own one, but someday I hope to change that.

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